Top 10 Problems in Red rock
Gateway Canyon, Red Rock NV | Photo: Sera Gearhart
30 minutes West of the neon desert of Las Vegas Nevada lies one of North America’s most popular bouldering areas, Red Rock. The deep narrow canyons that line the scenic loop and Calico Basin hillsides hold thousands of Aztec Sandstone boulders that have drawn the interest of old heads and new climbers alike since the 1970s.
The area’s popularity dramatically sky-rocketed with the release of Tom Moulin’s Southern Nevada Bouldering guidebook in the early 2010’s. With California’s surge in climbing gym development, Red Rock began to draw seasonal weekend warriors from Los Angeles, the Inland Empire, and Bay Area, and became an internationally renowned destination after landmark first ascents such as Meadowlark Lemon and The Nest. For years the most popular areas such as the Kraft Boulders, Gateway Canyon, and the First Pullout struggled to sustain the increased foot traffic and parking capacity needed with this spike in use.
After the shockwave of COVID in the early 2020’s, remote work became much more prevalent and brought a whole new slew of local climbers who chose to relocate to Las Vegas from other metro hubs. With a low cost of living that dwarfs that of many cities in the American West, these new locals and climbing advocacy groups helped invest into sustainability infrastructure such as trail building, parking lots, and restrooms to help stabilize the effects of increased traffic.
In 2025 Red Rock finds itself as one of the premier destinations for those seeking to test themselves on America’s hardest blocs, with Shaolin and Return of the Sleepwalker being two of the four V17s in the US and the only area in the world with more than one problem given that grade. At the same time, it continues to be one of the best areas for those brand new to the sport with its ease of access, incredible food and entertainment options, and affordable accommodations.
To quote Ethan Pringle’s iconic 8a.nu comment from his first ascent of Wet Dream, “If you psyched little boulderers only knew…” — Without further ado, here is the definitive list of the best boulders in Red Rock, as compiled and voted on by the SICKOS:
- Max Zolotukhin -
Facundo Langbehn, Kintsugi V14, Mud Springs | Photo: C/O Facundo Langbehn
1. Kintsugi V14 | 4.82 ⭐| FA: Nalle Hukkataival
What makes a great boulder? In my opinion, it should be tall, feature a single striking line, and offer fun, interesting movement. Kintsugi checks all these boxes. Nestled deep in Mud Springs Canyon, this impressive boulder boasts a perfect line up its middle. The climb starts with a jump to the first hold, followed by a mix of crimps, heel hooks, and even a ninja kick into a toe hook—depending on your chosen beta. With multiple sequences to unlock, Kintsugi stands as a top contender for one of the best V14s in the world. Each climber’s journey on a boulder is unique, but I can guarantee that the experience you’ll have on this one will be unforgettable.
- Facundo Langbehn -
Roger Chen, Natasha’s Highball V2, Black Velvet Canyon | Photo: C/O Roger Chen
2. Natasha’s Highball V2 | 4.33 ⭐| FA: Ethan Pringle
Black Velvet is intimidating. Fabled poor road conditions to get in, no warm up boulders for your project, home of v17, land of v12. Perhaps in most people’s heads its foolish to go there just for a V2. I disagree. Natasha’s ticks ALL the boxes. It’s right there in front of you—clean, proud, and waiting to be climbed. As an added bonus, the movement is good, and goes for climbers of all sizes. You might leave the canyon with two V-points, but at least you will get 5 stars!
- Roger Chen -
Alex Johnson, Critically Acclaimed V9/10, Mustang Canyon | Photo: C/O Alex Johnson
3. Critically Acclaimed V9/10 | 4.26 ⭐| FA: Alex Johnson
This line has it all -- subtle tech, a little power crimping, then fatty jugs to a V0 victory mantel. I was brought there by Tom after he'd been trying it a little and he basically just gifted it to me. It was the most beautiful first FA presented on a silver platter. That experience jump started me wanting to explore more and find and clean more boulders in Vegas. So while I didn't find or clean or build the landing for this one, it inspired me to start doing so for other lines and for that I'll always be grateful.
- Alex Johnson -
Eric Jerome, Wet Dream V12, Black Velvet Canyon | Photo: C/O Eric Jerome
4.Wet Dream V12 | 4.21 ⭐| FA: Ethan Pringle
Pretty much all of the stellar lines I FA'd in Red Rock were shown to me or at least tried by others first. I remember Jared McMillian telling me the line that would become Clockwork Orange was impossible, but I was too inspired not to try, and I knew from the first efforts that it wasn't. I skipped a lot of classes that senior year of high school in Vegas, but ironically, the day I did that one, I went after class. Back in those days (2003/4), you'd be surprised to see anyone else out in Kraft on a weekday, even if the conditions were perfect.
Footage of what would become Wet Dream was shown to me by Tom Moulin in the spring of 2004. It was "just a thing they messed around on" in Black Velvet. I doubt there was even a single established boulder problem in the whole of BVC at that point. I thought it looked unreal. Like no boulder problem I'd ever seen before. So long and steep, the holds so sculpted and rounded. I remember asking if they'd considered ever topping it out. "No", Tom and Brian Bowman replied. They were just trying to do all the moves on the overhang. Climbing beyond the horizontal crack below the lip hadn't even been a consideration.
When I got there, my jaw dropped. It was so perfect, and it suited my style of climbing. Strangely, I sort of intuited the beta I would use to send the problem (which I don't think many people use?) straight away, and after a short time trying moves and running the top-out once, I started sitting and climbed all the way to the sloper at the lip, on my first real effort. I fell off that move from the bottom for another couple days before sending on my first try on my third day. I don't know when Garrett Gregor sent, but I think I did the problem at least three more times before that happened.
- Ethan Pringle -
Max Zolotukhin, Atlas Shrugged V12, Black Velvet Canyon | Photo: C/O Max Zolotukhin
5. Atlas Shrugged V12 | 4.19 ⭐| FA: Jon Cardwell
The purest and hardest of the Black Velvet Trifecta, Atlas Shrugged is a diamond in the rough. In an area where suspect rock quality and face climbs are ubiquitous, it sits at the mouth of Black Velvet Canyon as a perfect feature climb on bullet stone. Starting on a perfect flat shelf, complex squeeze moves build on perfectly sculpted holds leading to a pumpy finish and a committing mantle that has claimed many a foot pick.
Its been a dozen years since I projected this and Wet Dream for days on end, but I still look back fondly on those freezing sessions with good friends. Even in those days, when lines such as Squoze and Sleepwalker were just a glimmer in Dave Graham’s eye, BVC was full of up-and-coming crushers all testing themselves on the benchmarks of quality and difficulty on offer. Pulling the delicate final press move felt like getting a merit badge that meant more than just another top. While Wet Dream was more mythical in my eyes at the time, Atlas represented a benchmark in quality and difficulty in a compression style that even to date I have yet to top.
- Max Zolotukhin -
Jon Glassberg, The Nest V15, First Creek Canyon | Photo: Jess Glassberg and Louder Than 11
6. The Nest V15 | 4.17 ⭐| FA: Daniel Woods
The Nest is the perfect V15 boulder problem and a challenge that any serious boulderer should try. In 2016 I became obsessed with finding a V15 that inspired me and felt like I could maybe, one day, do it. I looked all over the world for something that felt right and after years of looking for that perfect climb to throw all of myself into, I sampled The Nest and just knew it was the one. A perfect line of crimps across a blank wall leading to a delicate yet powerful crux at the very end. 16 incredible movements - V11 into V13 - a power endurance masterpiece tucked deep into a canyon high above Las Vegas. Finding the flow on this wall, gliding across the edges, working the moves down and making them feel easy was one of the most rewarding climbing experiences of my life. Living in Las Vegas, hiking an hour to the project at night, focusing on climbing my hardest. It was a special moment in time to get to interact with that place, this incredible climb, and test my personal limits. Eventually I was able to climb The Nest and tick that life long dream of V15 - A grade that didnt exist when I started climbing and now I am on a crusade to inspire other climbers to go have a taste of what I consider one of the greatest boulder problems in the world.
- Jon Glassberg -
Brian Nugent, The Shining Path V12, Pine Creek Canyon | Photo: C/O Brian Nugent
7. The Shining Path V12 | 4.14 ⭐| FA: Pete Lowe
Sitting alone in Pine Creek Canyon is this massive boulder with a perfect arete. Technical climbing with a high crux and committing mantle make climbing this boulder a full value experience. This climb is my personal pick for the most striking line in Red Rocks.
- Brian Nugent -
Chris Weidner, Tilt Shift V9, Oak Creek Canyon | Photo: Jon Glassberg and Louder Than 11
8. Tilt Shift V9 | 4.13 ⭐| FA: Tom Moulin
This boulder sits just far enough back from the parking that a fit hiker can put the hurt into their friends, but the walk is flat enough that they should be able to begrudgingly keep up. It has a perfect adjacent warm-up that is easy enough people forget to include it in these sorts of “best of” lists but you’ll likely end up running multiple times because it is simply that fun. The boulder is tall enough that it looks good even in a photo with us tall folks on the wall, but the crux is low and the mantle easy enough for approach shoes that those less inclined to get some air under their feet can still have fun. The landing is flat, the line is singular, the holds should never break, and the footwork remains technical enough to keep you interested.
- Hayden Miller -
Josh Muller, Stand and Deliver V11, Juniper Canyon | Photo: C/O Josh Muller
9. Stand and Deliver V11 | 4.08 ⭐| FA: Ethan Pringle
Stand and Deliver is an area classic. In my experience classic boulders aren't always or even often good boulders. After watching videos of Stand and Deliver I was less than psyched. It looked like the mini jump move was inelegant and a bit janky. But like many of us I was still drawn to try this classic boulder. Upon arriving at Stand and Deliver I was impressed. This beautiful deep red rock stands tall and proud up high in the canyon on a pedestal that looks out over the surrounding landscape. Climbing Stand and Deliver was an enjoyable experience as well! The top was unexpectedly insecure which added to the overall value and excitement of the climb. The opening crux is interesting and challenging. It is maybe a bit light for the grade but still a good challenge. Stand and Deliver is not only a classic, it is a quality climb.
- Josh Muller -
Trevor Roosen, Blood Trails V5, Oak Creek Canyon | Photo: Kyle Kredberg
10. Blood Trails V5 | 3.94 ⭐| FA: Mike Polina
It’s ironic, that I was the climber asked to do a write up for Blood Trails, because I haven’t climbed it.
I have, however, rolled up over-confidently, attempted it numerous times in the blazing sun, raked my knuckles, and—this was many years ago—probably cursed and said how much Blood Trails disappointed me.
In fact, I’ve met many climbers that echoed my less-than-amazing experience on the problem, and also rebuked the 5-star rating in Tom’s black book.
Blood Trails a good example of the quality of the boulder being independent from the quality of one’s experience. While there are dozens of problems at Red Rock that I would have listed above Blood Trails, the landing is nice and flat. The boulder is tall but not too tall. And then line is singular in nature.
- Eric Jerome -
