THE ETHICS OF BOULDERING
Unknown climber, Southwest Arete V0, Buttermilks CA | Photo: Miriam Timson
“What, bouldering has rules?!” I don’t remember who the poor sap was who elicited this sardonic response out of bouldering’s incumbent ombudsman Jamie Emerson but it has stuck with me over the years. While to Jamie and many boulderers who’ve been practicing the sport for decades, the rules of climbing on small rocks seem fairly obvious, its always bothered me that there wasn’t a canonical guide to point to and say “that was an invalid start, bro!”
Why does it matter? Why not leave people to their own devices, let everyone claim whatever they want, and worry about one’s own personal ethics? While our sport benefits from the creativity and nuance inherent in starting from point A and finishing at point B using any means necessary, the lack of systemization and reliance on the opinion of first and subsequent ascentionists makes benchmarking achievements against one another much more difficult.
Why is comparing outdoor bouldering ascents against a concrete set of standards important? For me it’s the only way to legitimize a sport that’s in desperate need of being taken seriously. Indoor climbing has had a much more well defined (if not constantly evolving) set of rules that has brought it to the highest level of international competition, the Olympic Games. I, for one, want to live in a world where the incentives for groundbreaking accomplishments in outdoor bouldering are put on the same pedestal as an Olympic medal. I want the Soratos and Tobys (Tobies??) of the world to use their talents to climb 10a or 9A+ rather than practice quintuple dynos 6 hours a day.
The Sickos Council has convened; here’s the exhaustive list of rules and guidelines that define the practice of ascending outdoor boulder problems:
Vincent Mollicone on the FA of Judge Judy V14, Morpheus WA | Photo: Miriam Timson
BOULDERING RULES
Color Key:
Rule - “A principle or regulation governing conduct, action, procedure, arrangement, etc.” meant to specify hard rules to be followed at all times with no room for interpretation, indicated by orange text
Guideline - “A principle put forward to set standards or determine a course of action”; meant to specify softer guidelines to be followed in most cases but with potential for outliers or gray area interpretation, indicated by green text
Ascent Style:
A flash attempt is the first time you lift off of the ground when trying any part of a boulder problem
If you have tried any move on a boulder problem previously, you may not flash any problem that shares that same move
A redpoint ascent constitutes any successful top of a problem after a flash attempt
If any part of your body touches the ground or the pad it is considered a dab and an ascent is invalid
If a spotter touches you and unweights any part of your body during an ascent, the ascent is invalid
If you brush trees or any natural obstacles that take weight off while climbing, the ascent is invalid
Boulder Problem Starts:
A boulder problem should start on one of the following: a) a continuous feature where any part of the hold is allowed to be used, b) one distinct hold where both hands start c) two distinct holds where your hands start, d) any holds that can be reached from a standing start using no more than one pad, e) in rare occasions have specialty rules for a problem's start
A boulder problem must start a) sitting, b) standing, c) via a jump start off of a single layer of pads
Once the start holds (one of a, b, c, d, or e in the first point above), position (sitting, standing, etc.), and path of travel of a boulder problem are determined by the first ascensionist, you may not deviate from those points to make a valid ascent of the problem
If you cannot reach the start holds, you may use holds below the start holds to establish
A sit start must start sitting and your butt must be the last thing to leave the ground
A campus start must start from a dead hang position
Using handholds other than the start holds to place your feet onto the wall before pulling on is allowed only if one foot stays on the ground
Additional starts to a boulder problem should be established from lower holds than the original line, not from above
Boulder Problem Path of Travel:
A boulder problem takes the path of least resistance to the top of the wall unless it is a variation or eliminate
A boulder problem must top out, unless the topping of the boulder is not possible or there is life risk danger associated with topping out
A boulder problem is topped out when you have reached the apex of the boulder
Miho Nonaka, The Practitioner V11, Leavenworth WA | Photo: Miriam Timson
Bouldering etiquette is a tough topic to broach with new climbers for those of us who are non-confrontational by nature. Its easy to be annoyed by a gaggle of gumbies showing up at your project and touching grips with their grubby Dorito-dusted hands. I often find myself quietly rolling my eyes at my climbing partner rather than speaking up due to not wanting to come off as the curmudgeonly Old Head™. Its often easier to yell at clouds in private about how the “game’s gone” then to take the time to impart best practices onto those who don’t know any better.
Looking back at many of the local climbing icons I grew up around in the South, telling young’ins off was not something they thought twice about — and often for good reason; bad or uniformed behavior can lead to serious access issues. Sensitive areas like Stone Fort and Horse Pens 40, where maintaining agreeable relationships with landowners and stewards was essential, necessitated taking hard lines on conduct detrimental to the team.
While most questionable behavior happens at popular bouldering areas where access is fairly secure, a few bad apples can spoil the bunch and stories of lost access are becoming more frequent. In a world where the vast majority of new climbers are introduced to the sport through climbing gyms who take little care to educate them about how to be exist in the outdoors, the onus is upon the Sickos to set the standards of bouldering etiquette and impart them to all who stray.
Maybe its highfalutin to think an article about ethics can help offset environmental and behavioral trends, but if we don’t try to pass on the values our climbing mentors instilled into us, there won’t be any areas left for the next gen of crushers. After all, every Sicko was once an unenlightened n00b.
Jon Glassberg, brushing holds on The Nest V15, Red Rock NV | Photo: Jess Glassberg and Louder than 11
Bouldering ETIQUitte
Definitions:
Core Group - The climbers in the peer group you came to the boulders with
Mixed Group - A group that includes other climbers who aren’t part of your core group
Behavioral Best Practices:
Climbers are responsible for their own safety and ensuring pads are well placed ahead of any attempt
Everyone in a core group who is climbing that day must hike at least one pad
In a mixed group, no talking while someone is climbing
Do not play music in a mixed group unless asking and everyone agreeing to it
You are responsible for your dogs’ and childrens’ behavior; if they act poorly you should leave an area where they are impacting others' experience
In a mixed group, always ask if you may join a boulder if someone is already trying it
Don’t walk on pads with dirty shoes
Clean your climbing shoes before climbing if you have stepped off the pads
If others are climbing on a problem, ask before touching holds and chalk up to do so
Hands should be cleaned after eating food, and oily foods should be avoided
Do not give unsolicited beta to others unless a climber or spotter is in imminent danger
In a mixed group, ask before doing any of the following: a) smoking, b) using a loud fan, c) moving pads that aren't yours, d) taking photos of videos of other climbers, e) flying drones
If filming a climb, be courteous to others regarding the filming; be aware of others filming while spotting or walking around
Be aware of your words and attitude in a mixed group regarding the following topics; a) how easy or hard a problem is, b) different beta choices, c) success or failure while climbing
Be aware of the order of attempts while climbing with others; if someone has brushed then they get priority on the next attempt unless they state otherwise
Do not throw wobblers
Refrain from spotting strangers unless specifically asked, and decline if you are unable or unwilling to complete the task
Minimizing Impact Best Practices:
Keep your belongings neatly organized and not strewn about the climbing area
Erase any tick marks on a problem after your session
Chipping or aggressively cleaning of established problems is not allowed
Excrement must either be buried at least 6 inches or hiked out
In areas with erosion issues, stay on established trails
Never use chalk with rosin
As sickos, we pledge to climb with honor and to pass down these sacred rules and practices to those who haven’t had the opportunity to learn them through experience or mentorship. Every year there are more and more new climbers and its incumbent upon us to welcome them with open arms and do our part to shape the sport for decades to come.
- Max Zolotukhin -
Photos: Miriam Timson, Jess Glassberg
